by Carolyn V. Prorok

Sri Mahadev appears in a rock. Hanumanji towers over the canefields. A mandir floats in the sea. Where can you find all three of these special places? The Caribbean island of Trinidad of course

Trinidad and Tobago is an island nation in the southern Caribbean. Its history is extraordinary for the diversity of peoples who have called it home over the centuries. Since the middle of the 19th century, a substantial number of people from the Indian subcontinent have made Trinidad (the larger of the two islands) a place where the traditions of Hindus, Muslims, and Sikhs can be found in the landscape. Well over two hundred Hindu mandir, over 100 Muslim masjid, and a Sikh gurudwara can be found there today. Throughout their Trinidadadian experience some people originating from the subcontinent converted to Christianity—primarily with the Presbyterian and Catholic churches. Presbyterian churches are also called ‘Indian Churches’ in Trinidad.

In this essay, I will share with you a few of the unique sacred places for the Hindu community who form approximately 25% of Trinidad’s population today.

This map of Trinidad (Tobago is northeast of Trinidad) shows the towns of Waterloo (central west coast),
and Penal (in the southwest) where we will visit some special sacred places.

Deep in the southern part of Trinidad is the town of Penal. There you will find a small temple tucked away at the top of a narrow, gravel lane called Patiram Trace. Thus the temple is known as Patiram Trace Siwala. This temple is so famous in Trinidad that Hindus all across the island know its story.

The Patiram Trace Siwala is a small and simple mandir that shelters a very powerful lingam. Extending behind the mandir is a Trinidadian style “koutia” for group worship events. (photo 2003)

Back in 1985 I met Sanacharie who told me the story of her father-in-law. She explained that around the middle of the 20th century he was hired to clean bush at the top of the hill just outside of Penal village. He sharpened his cutlass on a stone protruding from the earth. As a result the stone chipped and milk flowed from the stone. Her sasur subsequently went blind as a result of his carelessness. He immediately erected the siwala. His blindness made it difficult to care for the lingam, and so he prayed to Lord Shiva that his sight be restored. Lord Shiva gave him sight in one eye, and the man devoted his life to the temple. Eventually, Sanacharie and her late husband, Ramlochan, became custodians of the temple. Many people say that over the years the stone has grown over a foot in height. Because this lingam is so powerful, people visit the temple every day to perform puja and thousands of devotees pay their respects on Shiv Ratri.

In the early 1980s Sri Swami Ganapati Sachchidananda from the Avadhoota Datta Peetham in Mysore, India established a Dattatreya temple in central Trinidad just east of Waterloo. By 1986 a temple was formed and throughout the 1990s the temple continued to develop into a south Indian style mandir and a compound for the Hindu community was expanded. In 2001, Swamiji had the idea that a special murti should be erected. It took two years and the contributions of many devotees, but by June 9, 2003 Kumbhabishekam was performed for a magnificent, 85 foot tall murti of Hanumanji.

The Dattatreya Temple in western Trinidad is famous for its extraordinary murti of Sri Hanumanji. Above is a devotee praying with the still developing statue of Hanumanji in the background (March 2003)

If you have the opportunity to visit Dattatreya Ashram along the Orangefield Road near Carapichaima in Trinidad, then continue westward for a short distance and visit the wonderful Temple in the Sea and the memorial to Siewdass Sadhu at Waterloo.

During the colonial period Hindus in Trinidad needed to control the land where they wanted to build their mandir, otherwise it could be disrespected or even destroyed. Even when they had permission from a plantation owner to build their places of worship, later on this permission could be revoked. A devout Hindu gentleman in Trinidad named Siewdass built a siwala near the sea just after WWII ended but he did not own the land. Representatives of Tate & Lyle, the landowners, destroyed the temple. Siewdass Sadhu built it again, and it was destroyed again. Sadhu built the temple again and the new landowners, Caroni Ltd., destroyed the temple and took Siewdass Sadhu to court and had him fined. But he would not be dissuaded. With great devotion and much effort, Sadhu carried rocks and soil in two buckets during low tide to build up a pathway and foundation for his temple in the sea—a place that was beyond the reach of the landowners. Thousands of buckets later the temple could be built.

In 1970, Siewdass Sadhu passed from this world, and without a dedicated caregiver, the mandir declined. The tide broke down the surrounding wall and the shrine to the right deteriorated with storms. In 1985 I walked out to the temple during low tide. The murtis were removed, but it was clear that devotees still came to perform puja here. In the 1990s a renewal of the temple began with the support of local citizens and government funding. In 1995 a new temple was created on this site, and a memorial to Siewdass Sadhu was inaugurated for the celebration of Indian Arrival Day.

Siewdass Sadhu is now a national hero. His faith and dedication has inspired thousands of people who come here on pilgrimage to honor the deities and their most fervent devotee. But, if Sadhu was with us today, he would understand the pain that devotees suffered just one year ago in August of 2007 when vandals cast several of the temple’s murtis into the sea and desecrated this sacred place. Unlike Sadhu’s time, Trinis of all faiths decried the desecration and supported the Hindu community as they processed the shock of this event. The temple is now restored, but the wound is not yet healed. Siewdass Sadhu believed in the power of Mahadev and his own faith to overcome adversity. And so it is today—though with a twist. The vast majority of Trinbagoans believe in and support the rights of their compatriots to worship freely and without fear of reprisal. Overcoming this most recent adversity is a testament to the spiritual strength of Sadhu and all devotees.

This memorial to Siewdass Sadhu is the focus of Indian Arrival Day ceremonies each year. Siewdass Sadhu is an inspiration to people of all faiths.

Carolyn V.Prorok is a retired Professor of Geography